Anyway we dabbled with these boulders a few years back and put up a few good lines and worked a few more. There are two distinct areas. First the round pond area. Park as for the Round Pond trail head and cross the road, head towards I87 til you find the boulders. Problems there include a campus project, 2 v5 problems, a one move v11, a fantastic v3 out a prow, a handful of others and a bunch of potential.
The second area parks on the boulder side of the 73, first parking spot on the left after leaving round pond parking. Although this is really all one area it is easier to approach this set of boulders by parking and walking back towards round pond parking along the road. Here there are all manner of awesome boulders. From steep faces and roofs to aretes, slabs and 45's.
I spent my time today not looking at the boulders but looking at the lines and there are lines! So man up and go send some new things to help motivate my recovery. If you do go a pair of hedge trimmers could help establish a trail system for the entry point into the woods from the road. The landings tend not to be ideal so bring the big pad. A small crew could do a lot in a day.
The pics are just piss compared to what I was looking at.
These first three pics are of an amazing boulder. the first line I see here is a 45 degree over hanging prow. The climbing will be small edges around the right arete and sculpted side pulls and small krimps on the face to a probable pop to a jug at the lip.
Next on this boulder will be a mix of face holds, heel hooks and the arete to get you off the ground to a good top out.
A face climb up the middle rail to the top will also get you up there so bring the big pad and your best spotters.
This little guy has about 8 feet of climbing out a steep face with some great holds and good topout.
Enlarge this pic to see the holds and potential.
Sorry this is just the worst pic ever but this face ( the pic only shows the top half) has a really good looking line on small to smaller flat edges and krimps up to the lip and left to the top arete to pull over with.
I should have taken more pictures. There is a really beautiful slightly overhanging face with enough holds for 3 or 4 good lines. There are some crazy shit Highballs and some desperate roof and steep faces.
Anyway with easy access and several problems waiting to be done this is the best undeveloped potential I have seen in the Dacks. With Hogwarts running out of new lines (there is still a good bunch to do but....), and my inability to will new boulders into existence everywhere I want them, I am sending out a call to action! Lets get this place developed.
2 comments:
Always looking for new boulders...although lately I have been spending time trying to organize the Adirondack's first ever outdoor bouldering comp. It is going to be weaved into the events of the 4th annual Southern Adirondack Rock Climbers Festival held this year in Caroga Lake. The Bouldering areas will include Nine Corners, Pinnacle, Green lake, Pine Lake, and the infamous Prison Boulder with tons of prizes and giveaways...Sept. 9th-11th...
Off that topic, I have been wanted to check out these boudlers along rt. 73 by the Round Pond trailhead...when can I get a tour?
I feel as if Talus field bouldering has been somewhat neglected by New York climbers, especially when we have such a great resource so close to a major road on state land! I have stopped and scoped out these boulders many times, and I'm honestly stunned at the amount of rock. It no doubt continues past the section visible from the road and into the woods around the Bouquet River. So stoked on this rock!
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