Another wave of new lines have been done at 9 corners starting last fall. Below is their names, grades, location and a description of the problems. Enjoy. If these lines have been done before last year apologies and I'll remove. Please use the current guide book to locate the problems. Props to those who put the time into finding these new jems and sending these new lines.
Uneven Stevia - V5
(The Meadows: Saccharine Boulder)
Start as Even Stevia and make a dynamic move left to a crimp and slopey ledge. Move left across the slopey ledge to make a move to a good hold then top out slab.
Love Cats - V6/V7
(Middle Earth: Stoner Boulder)
Start as Rise of Nick Stoner and move left to a slopey ledge and continue along the low seam to jugs. Move onto slab and top out.
Diversion - V7/V8
(Stonehedge: Plate Boulder)
SDS: Start at the far right side of the boulder under a small roof on small holds. Fire to the lip and top out.
Stigmata - V? (Needs SA)
(Middle Earth: Stoner Boulder)
Start between Daves problem and Izodone at a corner. Start right hand on slopey crimp and left hand on bad sloper. Set feet and dyno to the lip and top out. (Needs SDS)
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5 comments:
This was formerly a project on the boulder. Probably around v10 or v11. Not exactly sure. Needs a second to verify. Did it last spring. Such a good move.
Francis
diversion instant and stigmata have all been done.
Not sure who put up diversion but i think it might have been buzz.
instant from the arete is just a variation and worth mentioning but not as a new problem.
Stigmata is just not a line until it goes from the sit. worked it a long time ago and had done all the move individually but never linked it.
I would be curious if anyone has ever repeated izodone.
also i think that some of the lines on the thorizine boulder have done know. the stand to burden and maybe one other.
dont mean to steal any thunder...
francis what line are you refering to?
As it stands today, stigmata is a complex one mover beginning from a left sloper and a right slopey edge. It is the line in the steep diehydral, about seven feet to the right of dave's problem. It's a toss to the huge sloper that is about head height. That move took a bit to work out, and is fairly difficult. I did do it from a sitting position, but there is another sit that could go. It is a less obvious start, and more chossy (a hold did crumble a bit) but would definitely add difficulty. I've been trying it a bit. If either of what has been described has already been done, no problem, it's just that none of the locals seems to have heard of anyone doing it, Murph and Buzz included. Buzz and I did diversion.
Francis
a lot of those problems were done years ago by KiPpY and PeAcHeS among others. Not to steal your thunder - check with murph or Buzz - they will know
A few more worth adding:
On the backside of Tower of Power
1. Cornered in- V4 tall arete on the right side of the boulder with the tree directly behind you.
2. Moving Meditation- V6 line of crimps that goes directly up the face to the top.
On the Big Kahuna Boulder
1. Undertaker- V4. Stan start on the large underclimg block. Slap the lip and campus out right to edges. Mantle onto slab and contiue up slab to top. Boulder directly beneath you.
On the Lost Sugar Boulder:
1. Sit Start to Dennis Sugar- V7. Really sharp cimps on this one.
2.Colorado Connection - V5. On the face right of Dennis is a small overlap/roof section. Sit start below this and follow sidepulls up the tall face.
Out at Stonehenge:
1. Into Thin Air- V6. Down the hill behind the Plate is a nice tall boulder with a small roof that leads to a vertical crack to the top. Sit start on the large rail. Move to the vertical crack and follow to the top.
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